expedition diary

 

9. may 2010

Position: On our way to Copenhagen

Temp: Springtemperature and sunny

Wind: Nice breeze

We are on our way to Copenhagen, and our flight is lifting towards Greenland on monday morning. Our gear is already shipped and has arrived Søndre Strømfjord.


 

10. may 2010

Position: Søndre Strømfjord

Temp: Summertemperature; 20 C

Wind:

Distance today/total:

Height msl:



There has been an eventful day in Søndre Strømfjord! We have seen two other expeditions set off; one team was flown in on the ice and another (Hvitserk) will climb up from the coast. In addition, a Danish team returned. They had given up coming up on the ice due to excessive melting. We also met a team of two Englishmen who had a successful crossing across. They had aching muscles, but they were very satisfied.


And so it was time for some practical issues: Checking our luggage, (350 kg of cargo shipped three weeks ago), get fuel and check that all necessary permits were ok. We were just about to do the big thing with the fuel. We got the wrong type delivered, and a hectic search for the correct fuel (heptane), paid off in the end. It was pretty hectic for a couple of hours, but finally everything seems to be ok and we are leaving for the ice tomorrow morning.


According to the plan, we will be flown in on the ice tomorrow morning by a Twin Otter to Dye 2 where the expedition starts.

Hans, Nils Arne and Ragnar in Søndre Strømfjord

Polar Lodge Hotel; last check of equipment

Arrival Søndre Strømfjord

Traveling light

Departure Oslo: Hans, Nils Arne, Pål & Ragnar


  1. 11.May 2010

Position: Søndre Strømfjord

Temp: 8 C

Wind:

Distance today/total:

Height msl:



Our flight has been put on hold due to bad weather in the area (Dye2). Instead we have to do the local tourist attractions. We have rented bicycles and are cycling around in the area. However, the city of Kangerlussuaq is somewhat «sleepy» after the american airbase closed down, and many facilities are no longer available.



Organizing the equipment

All set and ready to go!


12. May 2010

Position: Søndre Strømfjord

Temp:

Wind:

Distance today/total:

Height msl:


We are still in Kangerlussuaq  due to bad weather conditions at Dye2. While waiting, Paul has made himself a comfortable chair witch he will bring along all the way. We have made an agreement with the meterologists in Kangerlussuaq for daily weather reports on our expedition. Meanwhile; we just have to wait.

Hans says hello to other teams                               

Paul in his selfmade stress-less

  1. 13.May 2010

Day 1

Position: Søndre Strømfjord/Dye2 N 66 gr 29’ 32’’ W 46 gr 18’ 07’’

Temp:    -10 degrees C

Wind:

Distance today/total:

Height msl



X-Greenland has arrived at Dye2, a closed down radar station from the cold war, placed at the top of the ice cap. Beautiful weather and little wind, -10 degrees C.

We assembled our equipment and had a nice dry tech dinner . In the evening we inspected the spooky insides of Dye2. The last Norwegian team «Latitude» had signed the guestbook and left a present for the next incoming team «Hvitserk». We also said hello to the Americans at Camp Raven and some scientists who have been drilling through the ice for 3 weeks. We are very pleased with the events of our first day on the ice and we finally turned in enjoying the comfort of our new sleepingbags.

Picture taken from the Twin-Otter: Approching the inland ice, we passes the ice fall. The spring melting is in full progress, and BIG temporary rivers are seen in the landscape. Crossing this type of landscape can be a very wet experiance.

Enjoying deliscious cake

Just before take-off

On our way onboard in the Twin-Otter

Finally it is ready for take-off! The conditions on the ice are good. We have no problems with a little waiting at the airport because Air Greenland are celebrating 80 years, and are serving cake!

The team in front of the camp on rhe first day on ice

Posing in our team caps outside the camp. They were soon switched of for some warmer garments.

Paul, Ragnar and Hans in front of the radar station Dye2

The Paris pulkas were used for packing the luggage during shipment; hence the blue marking. It will soon be erased by the friction against the snow

14. May 2010

Day 2

Position:  N 67 gr 10’ 19,2’’  W 45 gr 40’ 56,8’’

Temp:    -23 degrees C

Wind:    5 m/s

Distance today/total:    90 km/90 km

Height msl


After a eventful day camping at Dye2, we woke up to yet more events. During the night the temperature had dropped to -23 deg C. We did not feel really comfortable getting out of the tent untill 10 o’clock. At this time the American Air Force landed at Dye2 with Hercules machines. However, our main task was to get organized and start seiling. About 12.30, we finished taking compulsory videos and photos in front of Dye2. NOW THE ADVENTURE REALLY STARTED. At almost perfect conditions, we cruised away from the last point of civilisation into the unknown. Nice, powdery snow and a light breeze (5 m/s) gave us a nice cruising speed. During the first day we crusied 90 km north. The temperature had dropped down to -25 deg C when we finally got into the tent. We have enjoyed a nice dinner with some frozen red wine which we had to melt on the boiler.

Setting off from Dye2, Day 1

15 May 2010

Day 3

Position: N 67 gr 17’ 26’’  W 045 gr 40’ 45’’

Temp:  -30 degrees C (night)

Wind:  3 m/s

Distance today/total:    10 km/102 km

Height msl


Due to little wind, we have only reached 10 km today. The pulkas are quite heavy and we need a little bit more wind to get some distance! Everone are doing well and have a great time!

Nils Arne’s harneshook broke down, but we have a spare one, so that is no problem.

Sailing day 3

Camp 2

Ragnar, Hans and Paul

Nils Arne

16. May 2010

Day 4

Position: N 67 gr 17’ 26’’  W 045 gr 40’ 45’’

Temp: 

Wind:  0 m/s

Distance today/total:  0 km/102 km

Height msl



Hans wrote:

This is the first day of our trip without any progress. It is a beautiful sunny day, but hardly no wind at all. Pål fixed another 21 m lines to his Flysurfer, and Nils Arne had, of course to beat him with another 80 m; 100 m in total. We managed to take som great photos of the kites upon the blue sky. Both lenghts worked exellent, but the wind conditions higher up were not any better. The wind was not strong enough to carry all our equipment, so we decided to stay at the same camp and prepare for a quick departure - at any time in case of increasing wind.


We have been sitting inside a warm tent as well as outside during the whole day. Ragnar is reading the book about Scotts pole expeditions, and informs us a little bit now and then about his failures. Weather prognoses for tomorrow 17: Sunshine and no wind. We really hope this is not correct. If this lazy life continues, we will only gain weight ond become fat!


Waiting for the wind

Extending the lines

17. May 2010

Day 5

Position: N 67 gr 51’ 51’’  W 045 gr 06’ 16,7’’

Temp: 

Wind:  5 m/s

Distance today/total:  68 km/187 km

Height msl


Ragnar reports:

After two days with light/no wind, we woke up to better conditions this morning, 5 m/s from south. The camp was packed on our sledges in a hurry, and after short time we headed off (09 AM).

We had good sailing until lunch-time, 25 km average speed. after lunch all our four Flysurfer Speed kites were extended with 21 m extra lines. This makes them more powerful in loops and also able to catch wind higher up. After some sailing left us, and we established Camp 4. Dinner today was served outdoors, and on the menue was pancackes with ham, jam and mape surup washed down with redwine and cognac.

We will take an early night so we can get going early tomorrow morning if the wind is back!

It is a strange feeling beeing here in the hostile white ocean of snow and ice without any sign of life.

17th of May is the national day of Norway. We send our regards to our families and our king, Harald VII and his family.

Camp 4

Dinnertime

The master of pancake-flipping

The big flag set for the celebration of the 17th of May

18. May 2010

Day 6

Position: N 68 gr 08’ 14,2’’  W 044 gr 40’ 8,6’’

Temp:  Noon -12 deg C  Night -20 deg C

Wind: 

Distance today/total:  35 km/222 km

Height msl 2205




Pål reports:

After a few days of absolutely perfect weather, we finally got a grey day. In the morning it looked like it would be a day without any wind, so we started to build an igloo. But before finishing it, we got a slight breeze from west. We scrambeled all stations and hooked up the kites. With maximum effort, we managed to struggle 35 km north before the wind ceased out. An interesting observation today, was a little dead bird. We picked it up, and named it immediatly «maSCOTT» after the great English polar explorer. Neither Scott or the bird brought enough food for the trip across the ice. Again we had an early evening ready to moove on at the slightest sign of wind.

Time for a snack; Pål, Nils Arne & Hans are eating dried deer-heart in the tent

Pål is supplying blocks of ice for the planned igloo

Ragnar with full face protection

Kites viewed over Ragnars pulk

Cruising,,,,,

19. May 2010

Day 7

Position: N 69 gr 39’ 59,6’’  W 044 gr 01’ 56,9’’

Temp: -25 deg C

Wind:  4 m/s from south

Distance today/total:  200 km/422 km

Height msl 2400




Nils Arne reports:


We have had a great day today. 200 km covered in very good conditions. We had an early start this morning; at 0300 we noticed some wind outside, and at 0435 we headed off north. Breakfast was peanuts and raisins. It was a rather cold start in minus 20 degrees, but with face mask and heavy clothing nobody got any frostbites. At 1530 we stopped, celebrating the 200 km barrier (picture) with a good dinner and relaxation in the tent. We are all doing well and are having a good time.


We are following a track that will keep us clear and east of a crevasse area closer to the coast. Just before we left Kangerlussuaq, we were informed about an area we were not aware of in the first place.

The boys are celebrating todays 200 km leg with salmon sandwiches

20. May 2010

Day 8

Position: N 70 gr 36’ 29,8’’  W 043 gr 59’ 45,8’’

Temp: Max -10 deg C Min -25 deg C

Wind:  5 m/s from southeast

Distance today/total:  110 km/532 km

Height msl 2600



Pål reports:


A GOOD 110 km distance and close to DISASTER.

We woke up and observed snowy weather until 10 am, but suddently it turned sunny. It was a nice breeze from south, and we broke up from the camp immediatly.

Without any aching limbs from yesterdays 200 km, we had an soft start with some filming with the helmet camera and the pulk camera. After this, we started our northbound journey. Ragnar has been navigating today, and he gave us a straight and perfect line of kite-flight. We have had some sastrugi today, about 30 cm.


After a few hours sailing, disaster had nearly struck the team. One of the team members had LOST THE SLEEPINGBAG during the day. Fortunately, «Hawkeye» Hans Friis spotted it from his position and picked it up! The lucky «looser» prefers to stay anonymous, but may be revealed at Snowjam 2011.


After 110 km we were truly satisfied and our bodies started aching from pulling the heavy sleds (100 kg +). We had ham-slices to restore our fat fatigue, followed by a drytech dinner as usual. Finally, we are in our sacks (luckely 4 in total) at 2100 PM.

21. May 2010

Day 9

Position: N 70 gr 36’ 29,8’’  W 043 gr 59’ 45,8’’

Temp: Max -10 deg C Min -25 deg C

Wind:  5 m/s from southeast

Distance today/total:  110 km/532 km

Height msl 2600



Hans reports:

For the second time we woke up to snow and completely whiteout. Impossible and dangerous to kite anywhwere. We simply had to stay in the tent the whole day. However a visit to the toilet was an asscold expedition in it self. And every time it had to be digged out because of the wind and snow. N.A. managed to build a giant snowwall to protect the tent. Temperature minus 12 degr. outside and + 5 inside. Again Mr. Sloppy (the anonymus guy) managed to tipp over a kettle with boiling water, but due to our safety rutines hotwater handling and cooking takes place only in the entry area of the tent, so potensial disaster was prevented. Mr. Sloppy fingers will - may be - be exposed on Snow Jam 2011. Ragnar has been reading from Scott and Amundsen book again to our grate amusement. Our sore limbs from the marathon-kiting are recouprating nicely on this lacy day. Eating Drytech, peanuts and dried strawberrys we feel we needed this day. Ragnar just came into the tent and could not tell up from down, may be 40 m sight. According to the Met. office in Kangerlussuaq we expect the weather to ber better tomorrow...

22. May 2010

Day 10

Position: N 72 deg 30 min 77.6 sec W 046deg 02 min 06.9 sec

Temp: Max --5,  min -25 degrees

Wind:  5-8 m/s from south

Distance today/total:  250 km/782 km

Height msl 2665



KITE RALLY straight into the midnight sun + some-drama.


We had a superb day on the glacier. With our Flysurfer 15m2 kites, we covered a respectable 250 km today. It was only a moderate breeze of 5-7 m/s, but we had a maximum speed of 55 km/h with out 100kg+ heavy sleds. The day started in a blizzard, when we played a game of bridge inside the tent to make pass the time. Finally around high-noon, it cleared up , and we started digging out our buried sleds. Immediately after setting sails, we smelled something special would happen. The snow was a flat powder heaven. The surface was without any ripples. We sped along at hight speed , with somewind angle, but later we had almost straight downwind. during the day we crossed 2 degrees of latitude , and faced the midningt sun for the first time. The sun just would not go to bed. but we have , at around 1am.

Todays entertainment was delivered by "Mr Slippy Hands". During a coffe break, Mr Slippy`s kite slipped out of his hands and was on the loose. Luckily, Nils Arne was still hooked in, and immedialtely sailed after the runaway kite, and secured it.  Mr.Slippy preferres to stay anonymous for the time beeing.

Pictures: runaway kite secured and delivered to owner.

Our tent "all fucked up by snow.

The team taking a break , after soem 200 km on out legs-

23. May 2010

Day 11

Position: N 73 deg 37 min 74.1 sec W 047deg 28 min 16.0 sec

Temp: Max --5,  Min -25 degrees

Wind:  6-10 m/s from south

Distance today/total:  150 km/932 km

Height msl 2560 m



Report from Ragnar;


Today we stayed in the tent for charging batteries (and muscles..). 3 pm we where ready to sail. Nice conditions and perfect wind direction. Also plenty of power. We crossed some areas with "sastrugis" so we had to concentrate. The wind increased and we rigged down our monsterkites and launched smaller kites. Skisails were also tested today but it was not enough wind for them. Total sailed distance today was 150 km. We are now more than half way to Qaanaaq :-)


Thanks to those of you that have sent us messages on our website e-mail!

Happy kiters in action.

Midnight sun in the tent opening.

The brutal force of the flysurfer nearly ripped Ragnars harness in half!

25. May 2010

Day 13

Position: N 75 deg 25 min 10 sec W 050deg 25 min 55.0 sec

Temp: Max -2,  Min -10 degrees

Wind:  2-11 m/s from south east

Distance today/total:  67 km/1174km

Height msl 2355 m


Report by Hans:


Today we woke up finding out that we had a visitor. The seagul Jonathan had paid us a visit. May this be a sign that we are reaching the coast soon? We tried to feed him, but he didn’t like sausage. As soon as we launched our Flysurfers, he naturally got scared of these monsterbirds and took off.

After about four hours of smooth and fantastic sailing, we suddently were suprised by a smaller low pressure system that came in. Within minutes we found ourself in completly whiteout. We decided to camp early for a change. After having installed the tent and packing out our gear, Pål decided to build a bathroom of snowblocks in castle-style! It took him about 3 hours to finish it. This guy has probably some undetected skills.

Todays supper was some huge filet of lamb with rice basilikum. After several days with Drytech, this was a luxury we really appriciated. We also had time to do some repairs and fixing. Ragnar has been sewing his broken harness back together again.

We also have some problems with electrical equipment. This might be the last of our written reports. Satelite telephones work.

Hans is frying filets of lamb in Kvitseid butter

Our latest bathroom standard. Note both paper- and coat- hanger

26. May 2010

Day 14

Position: N 76 deg 47 min 39 sec W 056 deg 29 min 21.0 sec

Temp: Max -10,  Min -15 degrees

Wind:  4-10 m/s from south east

Distance today/total:  230 km (9 hours)/1404km

Height msl 1900 m


Report by Pål:

230 KM BETWEEN LOWS!


This morning the sun was shining again as we dug ourselves out of last night white sediments. The weather report promised another low pressure to follow the previous one, so we were eager to use the good weather to the max. Mr Friis took the lead this morning, and he drove us hard all day. We only got a lunchbreak after about 130 km. The second session brought us closer to the incoming low pressure as we approached it at speeds up to 50 km/h. Our luggage and knees suffered tremendous torment in the high and icy sastrugies, but Mr Friis showed now sign of mercy for people or equipment. Not even when Mr Sanmarks nostrils froze up)

When we finally landed the eagles and reconed the damage, lots of minor articles were shredded to pieces. I had about ten new holes in my bags caused by sharp objects. In other words; lots of repairs today as well.

Dinner was again secured: Moscus burgers with stew. In the toiletcompetition, Nils Arne now has constructed a fully submerged enclosure with a wine cellar in the entrance area. We expect terrible weather tonight, but better tomorrow. We have about 350 km left to the ice edge, and the end of the journy seems within reach. Almost too quick as we are having so much fun pounding away on this endless runway. 

        Mr. Snott’s nostrils ALL FROZE UP

     Triple synchronous flight at 50 km/h

   All four in the bathroom (roof removed for clarity)

27. May 2010

Day 15

Position: N 77 deg 03 min 15 sec W 057 deg 46 min 21.0 sec

Temp: Max -10,  Min -15 degrees

Wind:  8-10 m/s from south

Distance today/total:  45 km (2 hours)/1449km

Height msl 1960 m


Report by Ragnar:


It was a late start today! Happy evening yesterday with Moscusburgers and extras may have contributed to this. The kites was in the air 13.30 and we sailed away in tight formation. This due to snow clouds and bad visibility. We had good speed, but after two hours sailing, we met a snowstorm and lost visibility completly. We packed the kites away and the camp were rigged in a short time. The team is now drilled in this operation. An exclusive toilet was also built by our former scout leader.

The weather forcast for tomorrow and coming days, is still low pressure systems with wind from north. This may slow us down.

Right now the dinner is on its way, and we prepare for a game of bridge afterwards. The temperature inside the tent is now +23 deg C and outside -10 deg C.

The «norski» kiteteam is now ahead of shedule and we have our target, Qaanaaq, in sight, and it is a good feeling!


«Victory comes to those who are well prepeared», Roald Amundsen

   Snowflakes are peeling off the surface as we try to put the tent up

Dr. Ampere is doing emergency surgery directly into the PC-batteries

28. May 2010

Day 15

Position: N 77 deg 03 min 15 sec W 057 deg 46 min 21.0 sec

Temp: Max -13,  Min -22 degrees

Wind:  0 m/s

Distance today/total:  0 km /1449km

Height msl 1960 m


Report by Pål:


Yesterday we crashed head on into a blazeing snowstorm. This morning we woke up to the contrary; total scilence and a clear sky. In other words, we were not able to hoist sails. Instead we started alternative activities: Shotgun testing, Polar Bear Warning System (PBWS) and snow block logo construction. The battery charging system is again running, and we have recharged most of our systems. During the day we also had an outdoor picknick with steam pressurized coffe, meat slices and chockolate. All mellowed down with congnac as usual. The rest of of the evening we plan to play some rounds of cards and revise polar history by Professor Ragnar.


Thanks for the latest greetings from our friends in Norway, Canari Ilands and world wide. 

Nils Arne is blasting off a few rounds of buckshots

The team is posing in front of a almost outsailed map

Hans and Pål proudly present our logo made in snowblocks

Ragnar presents the PBW-System

29. May 2010

Day 16

Position: N 77 deg 24 min 19 sec W 059 deg 49 min 21.0 sec

Temp: Max -20,  Min -28 degrees

Wind:  2-4 m/s from east

Distance today/total:  80 km /1529km

Height msl 2014 m


Report by Pål:


Flag at full mast on a cold crisp day. In the morning we rigged up in a very light breeze. Just as well, because we could hardly keep warm. After 40 km we got the wind straight after, and we felt the total scilence when sailing eaqual speed as the winnd. With lots of sinus-kitelooping we managed to cover a good 80 km before the wind dropped to zero. The snow was like heavenly powder without any ripples. We crossed a marked track about 350 km from the coast. We guess it might be a military scooter track from Thule air base (?)

In the afternoon we had a supriseparty for Ragnar, who had his 48th birthday today. With the flag hoisted at full mast, we enjoyed an afternoon snack outdoor on our make shift patio. Ragnar then served chocolate cake, jelly and concnac about 240 km from the coast.

The distance left could be done in one day, but hopefully not, as we still have lots of nice food to consume. The Bear Trap (PBWS) has been rigged up, and shotgun are now in an arm lenght away.  

«Ragnar 48» encarved in the bathroom entry arc

Skål for Ragnar

Flag hoisted

30. May 2010

Day 17

Position: N 77 deg 38 min 30 sec W 068 deg 14 min 41.0 sec

Temp: Max -15,  Min -25 degrees

Wind:  3-6 m/s from east

Distance today/total:  266 km /1810km

Height msl 755 m


Report by Hans:


We cleaned the camp early today as all of us were fit for fight. At 10 o’clock we were airborn. Sunshine and cold butt wind about 6 m/s. In other words, it couldn’t be better! After 110 km we saw LAND for the first time in 18 days. It felt like a drug, and we wanted to finish our journey today if possible! Powdersnow almost all the way, only the last 20 km were icy and sastrugi. Finally, we could tutch mother earth again at 22.30. Hans miscalculated the double linelenght on his kite and stranded it to everybodys surprise, into the rocks. But he managed to get it out again in proper condition. We shook hands and celebrated reaching this point.

The wiev from this landing spot is beautiful in all directions. It is amazing that it was possible to kite all the way without seeing any crevesses at all. However, we still have to walk with all our equipment about 6 km to the fjord tomorrow! If there is any wind at the fjord, we will try to kite the all the way to Qaanaaq (about 45 km). If not, someone will come and pick us up with dogsedes. Tomorrow will tell. 

On solid ground

Finally we got down on our knees and there were all big rocks in our path

At first we found some snow patches that headed our way

  1. 1.June 2010

Qaanaaq


Report by Pål/everybody


WE’RE BACK

After a neckbreaking finish of the X-Greenland tour, the team is now back in civilisation.The decent was unbelievable steep, about 30 degrees of slope. Our sledges were split on both sides, witch caused the necessary friction to stop a pulk-avalance. This was also a good opportunety to roll out a few tonnes of stones into a ravine. After reaching sealevel, we celebrated with a dinner of filet mignon flushed down with Vodka&Lime (This was the first time we did not use the hack saw to cut the lime)

After a brief kite-session on the fjord ice, we were picked up by 3 mega big dogsledges of about 30 Greenland dogs. They brought us back to the Qaanaaq civilisation. Mr. Robert F. Scott was right about one thing: Dogs are not the optimal transport method in polar regions. Kites are! And here is the reason why: Kites don’t need any food, obey fingertip commands, can go for days without any breaks, do not shit or smell, the speed is even more neckbraking and can be packed away for the summer season. And at last, but not least: Massive power! One Flysurfer 15 m2 on 50 m lines equals approximately 15 dogs or 3 regular kites.

Now we are sitting in Qaanaaq, waiting for the plane which goes once a week. we are all in good shape without any damages. We are very proud of what we have achieved and in the style of comfort and joy we have accomplished the mission. We rejoyce all the congratulations we have recieved on our website (Please don’t stop congratulating)

Torned sledge (a matter of warranty claim?)

Steep decent. Nils Arne is hoding back the sledge from avalanching

Dogsled transport on the fjord ice